VENTING INTO WATER LINES
COOLING HARD TO COOL PLACES
Before you vent into a waterline, consult with Logic for a design toll free 800-325-6442 consulting can be done quickly. Here are some pointers:
Be careful of the vacuum during mold opening and ejection that may suck water out of the mold.
If above is likely to happen plan on:
a. Shutting water off going to mold before mold opens.
b. With water off a high vacuum can be pulled.
Don't have gravity working against you, especially in the vent itself.
Make sure that once during each and every cycle, water touches the back of the screen or vent material.
Train personnel to turn water on before taking first shot.
If you are venting into an ejector pin, and it is not enough, consider a sleeve ejector pin around the ejector pin for more venting.
Small vent opening can be machined into the cavity from the water lines, and venting into waterline via ejector pins and dead parting line in the mold.
Remember that doing something new, different, when you run three shifts a day! It is simple, but everything has a learning curve. Good luck.
COOLING A LONG, THIN CORE OR OTHERWISE HARD TO COOL AREA
Again, it’s easy to get our help, and not expensive to email us. We like to put it this way: "Don't make the mistakes we've made." - Here are some notes:
A lot of water goes through a very small diameter opening, so keep your water transfer point small in diameter. This makes it easy to hold water in when the mold is open.
Always put water in and out of the bottom of the mold.
If you cannot use the bottom of the mold for water passage, use left and/or right.
If you must use the top, a larger Logic Seal unit may be needed - consult with us.
If you must be unbalanced that is, enter the top and leave the bottom, etc., - then you must consult with us. It is possible to do, but difficult.
IN WATER TRANSFER AND DIFFERENT TYPES OF VENTING
It is of extreme importance that air is allowed to enter at or near the point of water transfer, so that air can push the water back from the point of water transfer so leakage does not occur when the mold is open.
A long core with a small water opening can be made from heavy walled tubing. If the tubing is ordered from a harden-able material, like 400 series stainless steel.
The vent to push the water back can be made of hypodermic tubing with an outside diameter of .013" or less, but is usually done in dead parting lines in the mold.
TO STOP A BUBBLER FROM PLUGGING
Of course, filter the water. Most molders know to do this, and still bubblers will plug.
So, most important, keep the bubbler, at its top, in the center of the hole by shaping and bending out 3 sharp points to locate it in the center.
Plugging is caused by dead spots in the water flow where sediment settles. The dead spot occurs where the bubbler tube is allowed to rest against the interior diameter of the water channel.
In conclusion, if our minds can open up and design without fear of water leaking, and then compare the plus and minus of doing the mold the new way, versus the conventional way, the best profit will come about.
Consult with us, and then say "yes" or "no".
U.S. Patent # 4,151,243 "Water Transfer" and # 4,091,069 "Waterline Venting”